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Saturday, October 31, 2009

Weekend in Switzerland

Brad had to go to Switzerland for three weeks for work, and the kids had time off school, so we thought it would be fun to take a quick family trip to Switzerland last weekend.  So, we packed up the car and took off on Friday night.

We stayed the night in Leipzig, Germany, then drove to the Swiss/German border on Saturday.  We stopped at the Rhine Falls there by the border, just inside Switzerland.


We took a little boat ride over to the Falls, and it let us off on the rocks right in the middle of the waterfall.


It was no Niagara Falls, but it was still beautiful and romantic...


Driving away from Rhine Falls, we misunderstood the navigation system and took a few wrong turns.  It was a happy problem, though, as we truly got to take the scenic route.
We're still not sure if this was taken in Germany or Switzerland.  Like I said, we took some wrong turns and kept crossing the border over and over.  This field was so pretty that I made everyone get out of the car for a family photo (it's tilted because I put the camera on the hood of the car).

We finally got on the right road and drove down to Bern, Switzerland.  You can't go to Switzerland without having their Fondue, so we found this charming little restaurant in Old Town, Bern.
Unfortunately, the cheese was very sharp, and the kids all hated it.  Oh well, more for Brad and me.  Jess felt bad that all the kids were grimacing and complaining about the cheese - she didn't want to hurt our waiter's feelings.  I thought that was sweet.

Swiss Temple

Sunday morning, we got up and drove to the Swiss temple, which is not far from Bern.

During Brad's mission, the Swiss temple was renovated, and Brad got to spend the last few weeks of his mission helping with the open house that followed.  This was a highlight of his mission.  Brad really loved being in the temple as they moved furniture and finished the renovations.  He also spent a lot of time at the open house, where the missionaries got tons of referrals.  He said it was like a South American mission after the open house, which was amazing because Switzerland was a pretty low-baptizing mission usually.  (And Teresa, I thought of you while we were there.  I know this is Your Temple!)

I think it was good for the kids to see where Brad served his mission and hear him talk about some of the experiences he had while he was serving.  In Bern, Brad had an "I can't believe this is happening" moment.  He was on a street where he had been often as a missionary, but now he was walking it 18 years later with his wife and kids.  He laughed, because he said that when he was there as a missionary, he never thought he'd be able to come back, and now, of all the crazy things, we live in Europe!  Life takes you for a ride sometimes!

Grindelwald

After visiting the temple, we took a drive up through Interlochen, which is a lovely city between two lakes near the Alps.  Above Interlochen, there is a village called Grindelwald, which I think was my favorite place I saw in Switzerland.  It is a cozy little town in the middle of the mountains, with tidy little houses and farms on the hillsides.  We had the car windows open, and we could hear the steady drone of cow bells as we drove through the town.

 
I loved the chalets in the background.  Don't you just want to live here?






In Grindelwald, we boarded a train that took us up to the top of one of the major peaks, Jungfrau.

Halfway up the mountain, we found this crazy little souvenier shop.  We didn't buy anything, but the kids did take a ride on the red cow.

Top of Europe

The train ride up to Jungfrau - "The Top of Europe" - was about an hour of chugging through tunnels in the mountain.  Occasionally, the train would stop and we could look out over the mountain range for 5 minutes before we had to get back on.  I did get a bit of a nap in between stops, so I can't complain.

After the sunny valley of Grindelwald, it was a shock to step out on top of the Alps. It was a different world up there! It felt like we stepped off the train into the North Pole!


Yes, it was VERY cold! 

We also walked through the Ice Castle, which is a series of tunnels carved through the glacier at Jungfrau. The whole structure was ice, even the floor.  So, it was a little slick, but definitely amazing. It was cool - in every sense of the word!



By this time, we were all hungry, so we had lunch at a restaurant at the Top of Europe.
How's that for a view?

Zurich

On Monday, Brad had to work in Zurich, so the kids and I went exploring on our own.  I've decided that Zurich is not the best place to see Switzerland.  It is a beautiful city, but basically there is nothing else to distinguish it.



The Limmat river runs right through the center of the old part of Zurich.  We took a tram downtown, and had a little picnic lunch by the river.  If Adam had had his way, he would have fed his whole sandwich to the ducks.  I had to keep reminding him to eat some himself.

From there, we walked over to the Grossmunster cathedral.  I think the kids liked the crypt the best - at least Pepper did.  As we were walking around down there, he asked a million questions about who died there, who was buried there, etc.  There was a big, 600-year-old statue of Charlemagne down there that added to the spookiness.  It was outside on a bridge for several hundred years before they brought it inside, so it was pretty carroded and disfigured.

We walked across a bridge to the Fraumunster, another cathedral in Zurich.  I think two cathedrals in one day was plenty for the kids.

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

A Tortoise on the Autobahn

Yesterday, I spent the day driving home to Berlin from Zurich, Switzerland.  We had to leave Brad in Zurich to work, so it was just me and the kids - in other words, just ME driving.  I was not looking forward to the drive, but after our marathon drive this summer when I drove the kids from Michigan to Utah (3 full days of driving), I thought a few hours from Zurich to Berlin would be do-able.

When we got into the car around noon, I plugged our address into Daphne (Daphne is the name we have given the British-English speaking navigation system in our car), and she said we would arrive home around 7:30 p.m.  That sounded like a decent time to get home- not too late. 

And so, we were off.  The first couple of hours were uneventful.  We left Zurich and spent most of that time driving through a beautiful, sunny, autumn-hued Switzerland country side.  I think my kids got tired of me saying "Oh, look at that!  Isn't that beautiful?!" over and over again as we drove over bridges that crossed big gullies of colorful trees or lovely blue rivers of water.  We didn't even have to stop at the German/Swiss border, so it was pretty smooth sailing.

Then we hit the unlimited speed zones on the German Autobahn.  "Autobahn" is just the name for "highway" in German, so it is any and all highways.  The kicker is that in rural areas, there is no speed limit.  Since I had to drive almost the length of Germany to get to Berlin, I spent most of my time yesterday in the limitless speed areas.

I must say, it scared me to death.  Most of the roads had just two lanes for each direction of traffic.  Before we left, Brad's advice to me was, "Stay out of the left lane," so I kept my slow little self in the right lane almost exclusively, which meant I kept getting stuck behind slow-moving trucks.  When I did get the courage to pass a truck, I would wait to make sure there were absolutely NO cars in my rear-view mirror coming up the left lane.  Then, I would hold my breath, give the car some gas, and venture over into the left lane to pass the truck.  I kept steady pressure on the gas pedal the whole time I was passing, so I was going pretty fast - faster than I was comfortable.  Amazingly, I would get about halfway the length of the truck, and a car would magically appear in my rear view mirror, obviously wanting me Out Of The Way.  So, I'd speed up even more, and get back over to the right lane with inches to spare in front of the passed truck.  Then I'd exhale and hope I didn't have to pass anyone again for a while.

Now, let me tell you that I wasn't even going that slow.  I tried to keep my speedometor at around 120 km/hr, which is about 75 mph.  I think that is a pretty decent speed!  But as I was clipping along at 120 km/hr, cars would pass me at breathtaking speeds.  I could FEEL them coming on my left side, and as they passed me, my car would shudder with the wind.  As I watched them disappear in front of me, my mind would imagine the impact that could have happened if I had been just 12 inches too far over to the left.  It made me want to throw up!

So, my nice relaxing drive through the German countryside was anything but!  I spent nearly the whole day with my back ramrod straight, both hands gripping the steering wheel with all my might, and eyes frantically moving from rearview mirror to road.  I only dared sneak a sip of my Diet Pepsi when there were absolutely no cars to be seen anywhere on the road.

The worst part was that as the day wore on, Daphne kept adding time to our estimated time of arrival.  Apparently, when she said the drive would take 7 1/2 hours, she assumed I would be driving at the same insane speeds as the other cars on the Autobahn.  Because I was "only" driving 120 km/hr, it ended up taking us 9 hours to get home.  It was like a slap in the face everytime I looked over at the navigation screen and saw another 15 minutes added to our estimated arrival time.

To add to the fun, I had the peanut gallery in the back seat nagging me to drive faster.  The kids could see our drive time getting longer and all the cars flying past us, so they kept telling me "Go faster Mom!  Everyone is passing you!"   Adam was the most diplomatic - he could see I was a nervous wreck, so he'd soothingly suggest I try going just one km/hr more.  My only answer was "I'm going as fast as I feel comfortable - lay off!"

Well, finally at 9:09 p.m., after nine hours of driving, and two 15 minute bathroom stops, we pulled into our little driveway.  I could have kissed Daphne when she announced in her little British accent, "You have reached your destination." 

How does that fable go?  You know, the one about the Tortoise and the Hare?  Something like "Slow and steady wins the race"?  Well, I don't think I won any races, but I did make it home with my children and car intact. 

I may have an ulcer, though.

Friday, October 23, 2009

Haley + Casey + Becky + Dave + Berlin + Prague = FUN!!!!

This past week, we were delighted to have a couple of Brad's sisters and their husbands come to stay with us.  Haley & Casey and Becky & Dave were here for about 8 days, and I loved every minute of it!  It was so nice to have family here in Germany. 

We've lived here now for about 2 months, and believe me, we've come a LONG way in that time.  Looking back, I am very glad that I never have to live those months again, because it was hard to get everyone settled in a place so different, especially when I felt intimidated by even the smallest hurdle.  Most of my time here has been spent learning the ropes of living in a foreign country, and the mental/emotional stress of that left me pretty worn out.  So, I didn't have much energy to finish putting our house together. 

But, there is nothing like having visitors come to motivate you to get your house clean and put together!  The day before Haley and Casey arrived, Brad and I whizzed around the house installing lights, hanging pictures, and giving everything a good scrubbing.  This included cracking the whip and getting the children to help, which didn't give us any points in the "fun parent" division (oh well, we gave up on that long ago).  So when Haley and Casey came on Sunday morning, and I was giving them a tour of the house, it was the first time it really felt like home.  Good feeling.

Becky and Dave arrived the next morning, and then the fun began!  Becky is awesome to travel with because she always wants to make the most of every minute, and comes with lots of ideas and information about the place she is visiting.  I purposely didn't make any plans for their visit, because I knew Becky would come with great ideas and we could all just tag along and enjoy the ride.  And, it pretty much worked out that way!

The whole reason this visit happened at all was because Casey had to come to Europe for work.  He managed to convince his boss that the company should pay for Haley's plane ticket, too, because he was going to save so much money by staying with us rather than in a hotel.  The down-side to this was that Casey had to be responsible and work sometimes, too.  So, Monday morning, he left us to spend a couple of days in Vienna with a client.  Sad.

Monday afternoon, after Dave and Becky had slept off a little of their jet lag, we climbed into the car and drove into downtown Berlin.  You can't come to Berlin without seeing Brandenburg gate and pieces of the Wall, so that is where we started.
Dave and Becky hold a rather grumpy Luke in front of the Brandenburg Gate.

Haley and Brad try not to freeze.  It was pretty cold, and we didn't really dress well for the weather, so this trip downtown was fun and miserable at the same time. 

There aren't many chunks of the Wall left, but here they are in front of a small section at Potsdamer Platz.

Between Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate, we passed the Jewish Holocaust Memorial.  You can see our little faces above the concrete blocks if you look hard enough.

Uncle Dave saved Luke from walking miles around Berlin.  He also saved us from Luke walking sssooo slow and whining.

On Tuesday, Haley, Becky, and Dave rode the train into the city to do some shopping.  Brad and I waited until the kids were done with school, then we met everyone at the German History Museum for the afternoon.  We focused our visit on the section about World War II, which was interesting, although we all agreed that this museum is not a must-see.

Pepper, Becky, Adam, Dave, Jess, and Haley in front of the German History Museum.

On Wednesday, we had Casey back, and that is the day we went to see Sachsenhausen concentration camp.  We went while the kids were in school, which I think was a good thing.  It was a lot to take in, without having to answer all their questions, too.  Sachsenhausen was an all-male concentration camp, so there were very few women or children there.  Still awful.  The awfulness just kind of hangs in the air.

Here I am with Luke in front of the entrance.  I experienced a weird feeling standing there posing for a picture - I didn't know what to do with my face.  It didn't feel right to smile, somehow.

Hitler's cruel joke on the front gate.  Arbeit Macht Frei means Work Makes Free.  Who did he think he was fooling?

Only one of the barracks was preserved as it was during the concentration camp years.  Here you can see all the bunk beds crammed together.  We learned that eventually all the bunk beds were removed and straw was strewn on the floor for the men to sleep in.  Sometimes they were so crowded that one man couldn't roll over unless the whole room did so.  (No, you are not seeing ghosts.  There was glass in the doorway, and that is Haley and me reflected on the glass)

Common room of the barracks.

Barracks Washroom.  Just standing in this room felt creepy.  So, so bleak.

We all had headsets we wore as we walked around the camp, so we could understand what we were seeing.  Sometimes, there was an option in the recording to push a button to hear a personal account of someone's experience at Sachsenhausen.  There were a couple of times that I had to stop the recording because I couldn't stand to hear any more.  One story in particular is going to haunt me forever.  There was a "hospital" at the camp where doctors had liberty to conduct experiments on the inmates.  At one point, they brought 7 healthy children from Auchwitz and injected them with hepatitis so they could watch the disease progress.  Another inmate at the camp was an intern there, and he had to watch these 7 boys endure the ravages of hepatitis far away from their homes, parents, and any kind of comfort.  His story on the recording had details that I wish I hadn't heard. 

We also learned that there was a camp brothel.  Women inmates from other camps were brought in to staff the brothel, which serviced SS officers and the occasional inmate who had earned a favor.  I think there must be a special place in heaven for the women who had to endure that.

When we left Sachsenhausen on Wednesday night, we were very cold and somber.  As we walked away from the camp, we all wondered how all that could have happened right here in the middle of a cute little German town.  It was a surprise to me to see how close the camp was to Oranienburg, a little town just north of Berlin.  It was easily within walking distance of many houses and businesses.  It prompted me to buy a book at the gift shop entitled What We Knew by Eric A. Johnson and Karl-Heinz Reuband.  It is a series of interviews with people who lived in Nazi Germany, both Jews and Germans.  It has been fascinating reading these first-hand accounts of life at that time, and an eye-opener to me as I see that there were heroes and villians on both sides.  It also makes the point that the people who wanted to know what was happening were able to find out, but if you wanted to stay in the dark, that was easy to do, too.  I guess you can't judge anyone until you've walked a mile in their shoes, right?

Wednesday night, after our trip to Sachsenhausen, Becky & Dave and Haley & Casey rode the train back into downtown Berlin to see the Festival of Lights.  Brad and I stayed home with the kids and warmed up.

On Thursday, our visitors spent their morning shopping, then met Brad to go to a car place.  There is some warehouse in Berlin where owners of vintage/rare/valuable cars can store their vehicles, and it is open to the public to come see them all.  I think that was Dave's favorite place.  We got pizza for dinner, then Brad, Casey, and I went to my institute class while everyone else stayed home and caught up on the American TV shows we'd DVR-ed (yay Slingbox!!).

Friday morning was more shopping, then that afternoon we headed to Prague, Czech Republic.  Prague was a city that Becky was really anxious to visit, and it sounded like fun, so we loaded up the car and took off.  Casey had to stay in Berlin for work, and Brad stayed here, too, with Adam and Luke.  The Prague Group was Haley, Becky, Dave, Jessica, Pepper, and me, which made for a car-full for the 4ish hour drive to Prague.  We kept running into construction traffic on the way there, which was making me very grumpy, but eventually we made it.  I was very glad to see my little bed at the Prague Marriott.

Our Saturday in Prague turned out to be just about perfect.  We only had the one day to spend there, so we wanted to make the most of it.  Dave spotted a brochure for a 6 hour tour of the city highlights, so we decided to try that.  Best Idea Ever.  We had the cutest guide with the most awesome accent show us all over the city and cram our brains full of Prague and Czech history.  I think Jessica and Pepper were a little overwhelmed by all the facts and stories, but the rest of us just soaked it in. Prague is a fascinating, beautiful city.  It has been through many wars and occupations, yet the city itself is nearly all intact since the 1400's.


We started our tour at Wenceslas Square (or "squee-uhr" as our guide pronounced it).  Wenceslas was a ruler in Prague in the 1400's (I think), and he is now the patron saint of Prague.  He is the same guy mentioned in the English Christmas carol "Good King Wenceslas", but we learned he was duke, not a king.  After our guide mentioned the Christmas carol, I sang it in my head for the rest of the day.  Too bad I don't know the lyrics - the first line got old.

Looking down Wenceslas Square.  Yeah, it was pretty cold and rainy.


This is Old Town Squee-uhr.  It was impossible not to take a million pictures - don't worry, I won't put them all here.

This is the famous clock tower.

This is a close-up of the clock.  It was made in 1420, and it still works.  Every hour, it chimes and statues of the 12 apostles pass in front of the windows while the statues on either side of the clock move.  It is THE site to see in Prague, so we made sure to come back at 6:00 after our tour so we could see it.


The tour included a boat tour, which was a perfect place to relax and warm up.  You can see the Charles Bridge through the window.

Yay!  We can feel our feet again!

After the boat tour, our guide took us through the Jewish Quarter.  The tan building is a synagogue that has been standing for 600+ years.  We learned that Prague put walls around the Jewish section of town back in the 14th century to keep the Jews separate from the rest of the population.  That wall came down in the 1850's, but then Hitler and the Nazi's invaded in 1939, so the Jews have never really had it easy in Prague.  Apparently it is an excellent place to see Jewish artifacts, though, because when Hitler was in power, he decided Prague would be a good place for his "museum of the extinct race."  So, as the Nazis ransacked Jewish homes and synagogues all over Europe, all the best Jewish artifacts were sent to Prague.

Our tour included an authentic Czech meal - which was delightful - and then we were back walking around the city.

Jess and Pep on the Charles Bridge.  You can see Prague Castle behind them.




Prague Castle is this HUGE complex of buildings that used to be a fort.  That is what makes it a "castle" instead of a "palace".  Right in the middle of it all is St. Vitus Cathedral, which is amazing.



They started building St. Vitus cathedral in the 14th century, but it wasn't completed until 1929.  This carving under the rose window is proof that it was still being built in the 20th century.  This is a little self portrait of the architects.  You can see they are wearing modern suits.



There we are in back of St. Vitus.  Don't we look happy?


Just a random shot of Prague.  It was such a fun city to wander around, because every street we turned onto had another picturesque view.  It was like walking through a 3-D picture postcard.

After a very full day in Prague, we climbed back into the car and drove home to Berlin.  Sunday was spent resting and recovering and playing Quiddler.  Then, we had to say good-bye to Becky and Dave on Monday morning.  Brad also left to go to Switzerland for work, so the house started to feel very quiet.

On Tuesday, Haley and Casey left, after a very stressful incident involving me breaking the only car key we had just as we were ready to leave for the airport.  Luckily, Brad saved the day from Switzerland when he called a taxi and Haley and Casey made it safely to the airport on time for their flight.  Whew!

All in all, that was my favorite week in Berlin so far. It was great to have them all come and see our life here.  Everyone was so easy to please and we really just enjoyed being together as much as seeing the sites.  It was also very good for me to see Germany through their eyes - it made everything seem cooler, somehow. 

Now that we have hosted our first guests, we are anxious for a repeat.  Everyone is invited - we've got room and lots of hospitality to share!